Lilla Björn Sweater: Reveal

January 20, 2018, 3:01 am

≫ Next: First Snow: overlay crochet blanket by Laura

≪ Previous: Our Tribe: a new garment design is on its way…

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Let me introduce the newest Lilla Björn sweater design! (And me as a model again.) If you are following my blog you probably know what it’s all about. And if not – I have designed this off-shoulder sweater with Our Tribe yarn* by Scheepjes. You can check all information about this yarn HERE.

Feels like this is my first ever “love it or hate it” design. Till end I was not sure if my idea would work. My husband (my always helper and adviser) was very skeptical as well. He had mixed feelings about the octagon shape which reminded him of a network (or a shooting target, haha). And he was even joking we should buy a pet-spider to accompany this design. But I was faithful to my idea and continued to work. And after finished piece was blocked it suddenly felt and looked much better!

Earlier this week sneak peeks were posted and you were trying to guess what this design is about. There were lots of guesses: a skirt, a dress, a tunic, a poncho, a cardigan… but as you can see it’s neither of mentioned! :) I am not sure how to define this garment. It’s definitely a sweater… Maybe a “sleeveless off-shoulder sweater”? Is it a good enough description?

Front and back of the sweater are made with octagons. Unfortunately I can’t take credit for this idea, as there are several poncho designs with the same shape. I honestly think that a person who used octagon in garment design for the first time is a genius! It’s just a ready shape, and you don’t need to make additional shaping for the neck, shoulders and armholes. Isn’t it great? Yes, the neck line is “boat” but I like it very much. And it’s not very tricky to change it if one wishes.

I used triangles to make the bottom line straight. And then the hem was added. Easy peasy! The sweater on me is S-M/L size (or EU 36-40). And it can be easily adjusted to any size. Because there are no sleeves it should be oversized, with lots of positive ease. The crochet stitch is very simple, too. So I might be safe to say this sweater pattern is aimed to Beginners (or maybe Advanced Beginners as some sewing is included).

I crocheted two samples: one is a mix of two shades of Our Tribe yarn (Canadutch* and CypressTextiles*) and another one with my own shade Lilla Bjorn*. And here is where the name of the sweater comes from. It was designed to celebrate my own yarn, yay! Each sample uses under 3 skeins in total. I believe to make it slightly larger 3 skeins will be needed. And for larger sizes - XL-XXL - you will need 4 or 5 skeins accordingly (the numbers are not precise yet as I need to do some math).

Our Tribe yarn is available in your local Scheepjes shops and via larger retailers - Wool Warehouse*, for example (UK, international shipping). 

If I had more time, I would try and make another one with several rose and ruby colorways. I believe it would look just great with all the color changes.

Next week I will be making videos for this pattern. It will be FREE! Lots of math is waiting for me, so it will take a while before I can share it with you. Please, be patient… and see you soon!

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First Snow: overlay crochet blanket by Laura

January 24, 2018, 5:38 am

≫ Next: New Pattern: Amaya Mosaic Shawl

≪ Previous: Lilla Björn Sweater: Reveal

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Is it frosty in your part of the world? It’s snowing from time to time here in the Czech Republic but nothing looks as beautiful as in this picture. It’s from Canada. From Laura. Laura was helping me to test Wintery Octagon Mandala pattern and she was addicted enough to finish the entire blanket. Doesn’t it look magic? When I see the projects like this I can’t even believe they were made with my pattern.

Photo credit: all picture were made by Laura (aka Taemombo on Ravelry)

Laura chose very nice shades of Colour Crafter* yarn by Scheepjes (and I have stolen her color combination for another design coming very soon…). These are just two shades: Alkmaar (1708) and Wolvega (1099), so almost no ends to weave in! Laura used blue as yarn A and grey as yarn B. And she needed 8 skeins in blue and 6 skeins in grey - 14 skeins in total.

Colour Crafter yarn is 100% premium acrylic coming in 90+ colors (reviewed HERE). It’s incredibly soft and with a very good yardage. This yarn is available for purchase in your local Scheepjes stores and also via larger retailers, such as Wool Warehouse (HERE)* (UK with international shipping). 

Laura started to work on her blanket just after Wintery Octagon pattern was released in November (available HERE) and sent me pictures of the finished blanket a week ago. Together with other crochet work it took approx. 2 months to finish it. The pattern uses linen stitch background with cables over it. And compared to other overlay crochet projects this one is really fast to make.

I love the whole story of Laura’s crochet adventure. She was sharing progress pictures with me. Her blanket traveled with her to the mountains.

And it was made when it was really (crazy) cold outside. The frost in the picture below is boiling water thrown in the air. How amazing is this?

Laura collected all notes about yardages for each octagon and joining element on her Ravelry project page. You can see it HERE. Just in case you are in love with her beautiful creation and would like to make the same blanket as hers!

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New Pattern: Amaya Mosaic Shawl

January 26, 2018, 4:29 am

≫ Next: Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 1

≪ Previous: First Snow: overlay crochet blanket by Laura

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Mosaic crochet and tassels! What can be better? Only tassels and mosaic crochet, probably… January was surprisingly productive for me, and today I am happy to present Amaya shawl. My hundredth crochet design!

Amaya Shawl pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 25% discount through Monday, January 29th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed. After January 29th the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Seems like mosaic crochet was very popular 10-14 years ago. When last year I was searching for some inspiration on Pinterest I occasionally came across this technique. But at the same time there were only several mosaic designs available in contemporary crochet. And I felt that was unfair! Lots of knitting designers widely use mosaic knitting to create wonderful geometrical and ornamental patterns and in crochet there were not so many possibilities.

I decided to take mosaic crochet on board and released Nya Mosaic crochet blanket last year which became a total hit. Not because of the pattern but because ornamental and “tribal” theme is very hot right now. Later I created two geometrical panels for Spirits of Life CAL, and I know for many people it was the very first time they tried their hand in mosaic crochet. And I know many people fell in love with this amazing technique.

What is mosaic crochet about? In some way it is similar to overlay crochet with a tiny difference: chains are used in mosaic crochet to make the background not so stiff. Mosaic crochet can be worked from only a chart what makes it very easy. Just chains, single crochet and double crochet stitches are used here, and their combinations allow create ornamental effects.

I have been wanted to design a triangle shawl in mosaic crochet for a long time now. Because mosaic crochet (similar as overlay crochet) uses two layers of crocheted fabric, I decided to combine geometrical mosaic panels with light and open parts. So that the shawl is balanced, draping and not heavy.

In my idea several colors should had been put together but after some frogging and remaking the design said itself that it wanted only two shades. I made two shawls to show you how the colors can play together. One of them uses Colour Crafter yarn* in shades Alkmaar (1708 x 3 skeins) and Wolvega (1099 x 2 skeins).

And another sample was made with a mix of River Washed* (952 – Rhine x 7 skeins) and Stone Washed* (831 – Axinite x 5 skeins) yarns by Scheepjes. The yardages used for both shawls are approx. the same. All mentioned yarns are available in your local Scheepjes stores or via international retailors - Wool Warehouse HERE* (UK, worldwide shipping) and Loveknitting* (US).

Laura (aka taemombo on Ravelry) who was helping me to test this pattern, decided to play with stained glass effect and chose gradient and solid shades for her shawl. She chose Wanderlust* yarn by Scheepjes in shade Rio de Janeiro (3 skeins) and Colour Crafter in black shade (102 Ede – 3 skeins). And I really love her effect!!

I used 4.5mm Amour Clover hook* and it gave a very nice size and drape. Amaya shawl is approx. 2m/79” wide across and 90cm/35.5” high.

The pattern contains complete written instructions for every row, charts for mosaic panels (in two versions – to follow on tablet or your phone, and larger version to print out), and a HEAVY photo-tutorial to help with every mosaic row. The pictures are placed in the end of the pattern, so you can only print written instructions if you don’t need visual support.

If you make an Amaya Shawl for yourself, please, share your pictures with me! I LOVE to see finished projects :) Which colors would you use?

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Brief Facts about Amaya shawl

• Level: Intermediate. Mosaic crochet only uses chains, single crochet and double crochet stitches (US terms). The technique is not tricky, but it requires lots of attention and concentration.
• Language: English (US terms)
• Pattern contains complete written instructions, charts which can be followed from your phone or printed out (a larger version is included) and heavy photo-tutorial illustrating every mosaic row. All pictures are placed in the end of the pattern, so no need to print them out. And resolution is good enough to be zoomed in.
• Only two colors are used and almost no ends to weave in.
• Amaya Mosaic Shawl pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 25% discount through Monday, January 29th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed.

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Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 1

February 2, 2018, 3:39 am

≫ Next: Top 5 Health Benefits of Crochet

≪ Previous: New Pattern: Amaya Mosaic Shawl

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As promised here is the pattern for Lilla Björn Sweater. The instructions were getting too long and I decided to split them into three parts. Each new part will be released weekly together with video-tutorial. If you would like to see more pictures of the finished sweater, you can check them HERE.

After the reveal I was asked to host a mini-CAL or Make-a-Long for this sweater. I thought it might be a nice idea, and especially for this project a new Lilla Björn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook was launched. Please, feel free to join and share your progress pictures and all other projects made with my patterns. The group is closed but I will gladly approve you. But please be patient. Because of time differences it may take some time.

I have also created a separate thread in my Ravelry group for Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long. If you like Ravelry better than other places – don’t hesitate and join in! Welcome!

If you want to share your beautiful pictures on social media, please, use hashtag #LillaBjornSweater.

Level: Advanced Beginner

Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X)

The pattern is written for three sizes but it can be easily adjusted for your exact size (see approx. yardages for other sizes in Materials).

Measurements:

This sweater was designed with an oversized fit (approx. +20-25cm (8-10”) positive ease to your actual bust)

Bust: 114-138-152cm (45-54-60”)
To fit actual Bust: 81/97-102/117-122/127cm (32/38-40/46-48/50”)
Length: 57-67-73cm (22 ½ - 26 – 28 ½ “)

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Materials

• Fingering yarn. I used Our Tribe* yarn by Scheepjes. You will need: S/M - 3 skeins, L/XL – 4 skeins, 2X – 5 skeins (please, note that yarn amounts for sizes L/XL and 2X were NOT TESTED, so they are approximate!!)

 I made two sweaters in size S-M.  One of them uses 3 skeins in colorway Lilla Björn, and another one uses 2 skeins in Cypress Textiles and one skein in CanaDutch.

Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops, via Knotty House (Canada)* and  Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping). 

• Amour Clover 3.5mm (E) crochet hook* or size needed to obtain the same gauge.

• Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Gauge

After Round 5 octagon measures 10cm/4” across.
For a more accurate gauge: 27dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4”

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.

st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
ch chain
yo yarn over
sc single crochet (insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook)
dc double crochet (yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice)
RS right side
WS wrong side
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated

Pattern Notes

• Lilla Björn sweater consists of two octagons which are then enlarged on sides for a desired width (= front and back);
• Front and back are sewn together by hand on shoulders and sides (leaving spaces for armholes);
• Two triangles are added at the bottom to make the bottom line straight;
• Bottom hem is added in the very end for the desired length of the sweater.

Please, have a look at the schema below. It should give you an idea about the sweater’s construction:

This week we are making two central octagons (A) for front and back.


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INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

Octagon (make two – front and back)

TIP: if you want to use two colors, weigh your yarn for octagon center and divide this amount by two. For example, for S/M size you should use ½ skein for the center of one octagon (front) and another ½ skein for the center of another octagon (back). The rest will be made with another shade.

Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), [1dc into ring, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, tighten magic ring, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (8dc, 8ch2-sps)

TIP: for an easier count mark each ch2-sp in the corner with stitch marker and move them to every new round as you progress.

Rnd 2. Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2-sp), [1dc in same sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 8ch2-sps)

Rnd 3. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp] repeat 7 times in total, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 16 ch1-sps, 8ch2-sps)

Rnd 4. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, *[1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till 1 st before next ch2-sp in the corner left, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp* repeat 7 times in total, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till joining ss, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (7dc on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)

Rnd 5. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till joining ss, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (5dc and 4 ch1-sps on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)

Repeat rounds 4 and 5 till you get desired length of the sweater (without bottom hem). Finish octagon with rnd 4. Your stitch count should increase by 4 on each side of every “full” round with dc (compared to previous full round). Don't fasten off!!

Check video tutorial HERE:

Tip: to prevent “turning effect” of the octagon shape you can made some of the lace rounds on WS.  
For my sweater I made every third “holey” round on the WS.

Example: turn and continue on WS. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip 1 st, 1dc, [*ch1, skip 1, 1dc in next st* till 1 dc left before ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd.

For the next “full” rnd turn and repeat rnd 4 as usual – on RS.

Octagon can start curling at some point. But this effect should be minimized by blocking.

I made 28 rounds in total for S/M size, And you can make 32 rounds for L/XL and 34 rounds for 2X sizes (your octagon should measure 50-58-62cm (20-23-24 1/2") across from side to side (blocked). Please, adjust amounts of rounds according to your prefered size.

The octagon's size will give you a desired length (without the bottom hem).

Next week we will enlarge octagons and make triangles for sweater’s bottom.

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Top 5 Health Benefits of Crochet

February 2, 2018, 4:43 am

≫ Next: Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 2

≪ Previous: Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 1

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There are many reasons to learn how to crochet, but one of the things driving a lot of new people to the craft is the fact that it offers a number of health benefits. The tactile pleasure of the yarn, the rhythmic nature of the crochet stitches, the combination of relaxation and focus and the connections it offers with others all combine to create benefits that relieve a variety of conditions. Of course, you don’t have to be ill to enjoy crochet but it is nice to know that it helps in these ways. Curious? Here are the top five benefits of crochet.

Photo Credit: all pictures in this blog post by Kathryn of Crochet Concupiscence

This is a guest post by Kathryn Vercillo, blogger at Crochet Concupiscence and author of several books including Crochet Saved My Life* and Mandalas for Marinke*.

1. Crochet boosts serotonin.

Studies show that knitting and crochet both help release serotonin in the body, leading to a wide host of health benefits. The major benefit is that this is a natural anti-depressant. Many people are saying that crochet is a great adjunct to conventional therapy; there are countless reasons for this and serotonin release is one of them. Serotonin is also a natural pain-reliever and studies show that crochet can help with chronic pain conditions.

2. Crochet offers a positive distraction.

The value of this can’t be underestimated in terms of both physical and mental health. Taking your mind off of chronic pain can help it seem like it goes away, adding to the natural pain-relief properties of the craft’s serotonin release. Breaking the ruminating cycles of the mind with crochet adds to the reduction of depression. Any time that you’re experiencing stress, anxiety, or overwhelm, it can help to pick up your crochet hook and focus on a project.

3. There are proven benefits to color therapy and yarn is colorful.

Looking to relax? Try working with a soothing blue yarn. Feeling low on energy? Grab some red wool. Of course, there are many detailed things to learn about color therapy, and you can delve into that if you want to, but you can also just trust your gut when it comes to finding the yarn colors that make you feel good. Take out a few skeins of yarn, one at a time, and gaze at them long enough to see what noticeable changes there are in your mood. This information can help you get out of any rut.

4. Crochet is a tactile craft.

Crochet means that you are working with fiber, which can have such a great impact on your skin. The soft touch of a perfect baby alpaca yarn can soothe your soul on the darkest of days. Feeling numb because of pain or illness? Try a rougher fiber like jute to get yourself grounded back into your body.

In addition to the feeling of the fiber itself, pay attention to the benefits of the motion of the craft. The rhythmic creation of crochet stitches is soothing for the body. Yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through … it offers a meditative sensation that helps lull you out of anxiety and into ease.

5. Making something with your hands boosts self-esteem.

There are many days when illness leaves you feeling worthless. Whether it’s depression, chronic pain or just a cold that’s been hanging on for a few days, it can be immensely frustrating to feel like you can’t do anything productive. Crochet is a craft that you can do from your bed with limited energy. And yet, crochet allows you to create beautiful, functional items that you can use, gift or sell. What a great way to battle the blues that come with feeling like you’re not getting anything done because you’re “too sick”.

You don’t have to have a reason to crochet other than the fact that you enjoy it. Nevertheless, it feels good to know that there are many excellent benefits to the craft!

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I would like to thank Kathryn for such an interesting blog post. I am sure it will be helpful for many people, and hopefully more crafters will turn to crochet? :) Want to read more articles by Kathryn? Visit her website HERE and follow her on Facebook and Instagram.

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Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 2

February 9, 2018, 11:19 am

≫ Next: Lilla Bjorn Sweater: Part 3

≪ Previous: Top 5 Health Benefits of Crochet

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Hey! Are you joining me for a Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long? Last week Part 1 was released and we made two central octagons: for front and back. And today we will enlarge them for a desired width of the sweater!

 Resources:

• General information, size and gauge information, material list and Instructions for Part 1 are HERE.
• Video tutorials are available on my YouTube channel HERE 
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
• Join Lilla Bjorn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook or my official Ravelry group to enter Make-A-Long
• Share your wips and finished project on social media with hashtag #LillaBjornSweater

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

To reach designed width we should enlarge octagon on the sides. Let’s have a look at the schema again:

B = enlarged sides for a desired width. We are making them today.

First you should decide how much you would like to enlarge the width of your sweater, and divide this number by 2. This will give you the height of enlargement on each side.

For example, you want to make your octagon 10cm wider. It means you should add 5cm/2" on each side (=the height of enlargement)

You will work in back and forth (so you will turn after every row) along three sides of the octagon. “Holey” rows are made on WS and “full” rows on RS.

Video tutorial is available here:

Enlargement 1:

Note: for the needs of photo and video tutorials I used contrasting yarn. But you can continue with your main color, if you wish.

Row 1. Turn and work on WS.

Ch3, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 3 sts left before next ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in next ch2-sp in the corner), turn.
You will get two decreased sides and one regular side (between two decreased). 

Row 2 (RS). Ch3, 1dc2tog (make first leg in next sp, make second leg in next st), [*1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st* till next ch2-sp in the corner, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st] repeat 2 times in total, 1dc in next sp, *1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp* till 1dc+1ch-sp+1dc2rog left, 1dc3tog (make first leg in next dc, make second leg in next sp, make third leg in last dc2tog), turn.

Row 3. Ch3, skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 4 sts left, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in last st), turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till desired height is reached. Finish with row 2.

You can, for example, make: 4 rows (or 3.5cm/1.5") for S/M, 6 rows (or 5.5cm/2") for L/XL, 8 rows (or 7cm/3") for 2X (or other number of rows depending on your yarn choice and size preferences). Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.

Enlargement 2:

Place crocheted piece facing you with WS so that the Enlargement 1 is on the left. Attach yarn with ss in right bottom corner (ch2-sp).

Complete enlargement 2 in the same way as Enlargement 1. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail. Block Front and Back to measurements.

Triangle (make two)

Two triangles are needed to fill the “gaps” at the sweater’s bottom to make the bottom line straight.

The size of triangles will depend on the size of your back and front. Stitch count on the triangle’s side should be the same as on decreased side of the octagon. One or two stitches difference doesn’t not matter. You will easily fix it while sewing sweater together.

Triangles are worked in rows in back and forth.

Row 1 WS. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), 1dc in magic ring, ch2, 1dc in magic ring, ch1, 1dc in magic ring. Tighten ring, turn.

Row 2 RS. Ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, 4dc in last sp, turn. (7dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in first st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till 1 st left, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last sp, turn. (6dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 4. Ch3, 2dc in first st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till last sp, 4dc in last sp, turn. (15dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you get needed stitch count on the sides. I made 14 rows for S/M size. Unfortunately I was not able to calculate exact number of rows for L-XL and 2X sizes. Please, continue to crochet triangles till you get needed stitch count on the sides. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.

Next week we will put sweater together and add a hem at the bottom.

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Lilla Bjorn Sweater: Part 3

February 16, 2018, 6:10 am

≫ Next: Linen Crochet Stitch Will Never Get Old: wip

≪ Previous: Lilla Björn Sweater: Part 2

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Our Lilla Bjorn Sweater make-a-long is almost over. I am loving all your beautiful creations. Please, don’t stop sharing your pictures on social media. They make me happy :) Today we will be putting the sweater together, we will also add the hem at the bottom. And (yay!) your sweater will be finished!

Resources:

• General information, size and gauge information, material list and Instructions for Part 1 are HERE. And HERE are instructions for Part 2.
• I used Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes for my sweater. It is available in Scheepjes local shops, via Caro's Atelier* (NL), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both UK with international shipping). 
• Video tutorials are available on my YouTube channel HERE 
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
• Join Lilla Bjorn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook or my official Ravelry group to enter Make-A-Long
• Share your wips and finished project on social media with hashtag #LillaBjornSweater

Before you start putting sweater together I would recommend blocking all pieces carefully to desired measurements. Blocking will give you an idea of current length of your sweater. And it will be easier to estimate the width of the hem at the bottom.

Putting sweater together

Place front and back side by side facing you with RS.

Using yarn tails sew triangles at the bottom to the decreased sides (as shown in the pictures).

My photo camera died few days ago and I needed to give it to service. I couldn't make progress pictures for the rest of the pattern, but you can watch the video!

 
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides (regular side of the enlarged octagon) from the top of triangles up, leaving a desired space for the armhole (approx. 15cm/6" in height, or 30cm/12" in circumference).

To strengthen neckline and armholes, work with one round of slip stitches around them:

• Attach yarn with ss (on RS) in a shoulder seam, work with ss around the neckline, join with ss in first ss of the round, fasten off. Repeat the same for armholes.

Hem

Round 1. With RS facing you attach yarn with ss in magic ring of any triangle, ch2, 1dc in same st as join, dc evenly along the bottom of your sweater. Be sure you make equal amount of dc’s along the bottom of both triangles. When you come to the beginning of the round, join with ss in first dc after ch2.

Round 2. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat around, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beginning of the round.

Round 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as dc), 2dc in next sp, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] repeat around. Join with ss in first dc after ch2.

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 till you reach the desired length of your sweater, then repeat Rnd 2 once again.

Here are approx. directions for you: size S/M - 8 rounds (or 7cm/3"), size L/XL - 10 rounds (or 9cm/3.5"), size 2X - 12 rounds (or 11cm/4.5") 

Edge 

[ch5, skip sp+ next dc+ next sp, ss in next dc, ch3, ss in same dc] repeat around. Improvise with end with this rnd depending on your stitch count. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends, block your sweater to measurements.

Congratulations!!! Your very own Lilla Bjorn Sweater is now finished! 

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Linen Crochet Stitch Will Never Get Old: wip

February 20, 2018, 6:13 am

≫ Next: Illusion Mandala: new overlay crochet pattern

≪ Previous: Lilla Bjorn Sweater: Part 3

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Linen stitch is one of my greatest discoveries of year 2017. Well, of course I knew about it before but for some reason I didn’t use it often in my crochet designs. And I think now it’s time for a change. I have almost finished my new project and here is the wip.

As you can easily guess from the pictures it’s a new shawl. The pattern will be free and I will work hard to bring it to life in next couple of weeks. But today I would like to give you an idea of how it looks. Well, what you see is not really a complete stitch pattern. It’s the wrong side actually :) But it also means my new shawl is reversible.

I have been playing with River Washed yarn by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). It’s a cotton blend in very nice and vibrant colors (named after famous world’s rivers). And every shade contains two colors: one is in cotton cord and another is added with a fluff. Together these shades bring an incredible effect. It’s not easy to catch it with the camera, but I gave it a try.

I made two shawls in different color palettes and tried to present almost all shades of River Washed yarn. I also added a regular Stone Washed yarn (in the same composition and quality) to blue and pink sample. Yes, these two yarns can be combined together! And this gives even more opportunities for color combinations!

Both River Washed and Stone Washed yarns are available in local Scheepjes stores, Caro's Atelier* (NL) and also via international retailers such as Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK but with worldwide shipping), Knotty House* (Canada).

And here is something else I would like to show you. I have been dreaming about craft labels for a very long time. But because I don't have a logo (yet) I didn't know how to design them. And then I came across a lovely Etsy shop from Bulgaria which sells different types of custom labels. I contacted them and they sent me a sketch in no time. Just what I needed!!! :) Mine are wooden (not leather as I wanted them to be animal friendly). If you are looking for something similar for yourself HERE is a link to Leather Goods Company Etsy shop.

Watch my blog next week for a shawl’s reveal.

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Illusion Mandala: new overlay crochet pattern

February 23, 2018, 5:26 am

≫ Next: Octopuses for Preemies: my contribution to the world Octo Project

≪ Previous: Linen Crochet Stitch Will Never Get Old: wip

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Overlay crochet is a great passion of my creative life. Thanks to this technique I came to designing world almost 4 years ago. And since then I have been using it almost in every crochet design. Mandala art has become my favourite crochet form, several mandala patterns were created. And all of them became very popular. Recently I have been doing something else (investigating into cables and mosaic crochet). And suddenly I felt that I miss mandala’s so much! And I felt the time to create something new has come again.

Let me introduce my newest overlay crochet design which I called Illusion Mandala. It’s overlay crochet “classics” if I can say like this: thick multi-layered fabric, solid background, lots of texture and structure thanks to front post stitches.

 Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Illusion Mandala overlay crochet pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 30% discount through Monday, February 26th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed. After January 26th the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

You often ask what inspires me to create mandalas. I try not to look too much at existing crochet pieces as there is always high possibility of “unconscious copying” when designer’s brain thinks it came with idea itself. I am looking at graphics, drawings, architecture pieces and fabric instead. Illusion Mandala was born as a respond to a monochrome vector illustration which I spotted on Pinterest. I have completely rethought the lines and shapes. And in the end came up with a unique design.

My stash is constantly growing, I’ve almost run out of space in my bedroom (everything is covered with closets full of yarn and boxes), so this time I decided to use up leftovers of wool blend yarns by different brands. I mostly used Superlana Klasik by Alize – a DK yarn. But it was also combined with other yarns, and I have no idea about there names. They have been stored in my stash for ages and labels were lost long ago.

I’ve tried to look for similar colors in Superlana Klasik range, so that you have a clear idea of used colors. Alize yarn is Turkish and it’s not available via large international retailers. But you can absolutely use any yarn for you mandala. It can be Sport or Fingering. Or you can even make one with threads.

• Purple Mandala: exact shades are given in the pattern
• Green Mandala: Yarn A (213), Yarn B (161), Yarn C (100), Yarn D (214)
• Blue Mandala: Yarn A (62), Yarn B (514), Yarn C (652), Yarn D (58)

“What can I use a crocheted mandala for?” – this is another very common question I hear. Well, there are many (!) ways of using mandalas. They can be wall hangings, trivets, round pillows or square pillow decorations, stool covers – you name it. A while ago I wrote a blog post about how to use a mandala (check it HERE).

Now let’s talk about Illusion Mandala pattern a bit. It looks very tricky, yes, I know that. But!! As other overlay mandala designs Illusion Mandala is not so tricky or difficult to make. Yes, it’s not a lazy project you would make while watching TV series. You will need to concentrate, be attentive and count. But other than that the pattern doesn’t require anything extraordinary. Lots of front post stitches are used in this pattern. And if you feel comfortable making them, then you can absolutely give this pattern a try.

 
Loads of progress pictures are provided in the pattern. So no room for you to be lost :) And I’ve also created a print friendly file (with no pictures) for those who don’t like to print long pages with photo-tutorials. Actually, you can print out just written instructions and verify with pictures on your tablet or phone.

I am really happy with Illusion Mandala design and I hope you will like it, too. Please, share your pictures with me in my brand new Facebook group HERE or on Ravelry HERE. And you can use a hashtag #illusionmandala to share them on social media.

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Brief Facts about Illusion Mandala

• Level: Intermediate. Loads of front post stitches
• Language: English (US terms)
• Pattern contains complete written instructions and heavy photo-tutorial illustrating every round. A print-friendly copy (with no pictures) is also included.
• Illusion Mandala overlay crochet pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 30% discount through Monday, February 26th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon code needed.

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Octopuses for Preemies: my contribution to the world Octo Project

February 28, 2018, 4:10 am

≫ Next: River Washed: new Shawl design is on its way…

≪ Previous: Illusion Mandala: new overlay crochet pattern

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My best friend has been working as a doctor in hospital for preemies in Minsk for many years. A while ago she suddenly asked me to crochet several octopuses for their little patients… I heard about a world Octo project before and my Facebook feed was flooded with articles about their benefits and positive influence on preemies’ health. But I didn’t know and was very surprised to hear Belarus also joined this project. And of course I was very happy to help!

An idea of giving crocheted octopuses to preemies was born in Denmark in 2013. And apparently it very quickly spread all over the world. As for today 32 countries have joined an Octo project (a complete list of countries and Facebook groups is HERE).

Why crochet octopuses are so important? The studies showed that preemies who cuddled up with these cute octopus toys in their incubators had more regular heartbeats, better breathing, and higher levels of oxygen in their blood. Not only that, but these babies were also less likely to pull out their monitors and tubes.

And that’s because the tentacles of the octopus apparently remind these babies of their mom’s umbilical cords, and the soft bodies remind them of the womb.

Last week my octopuses arrived to Belarus and after a proper wash were delivered to hospital in Minsk.

 

I have so many different feelings about this picture… Isn’t it precious? My octopus was gifted to this baby, and parents will take it home when she feels strong and healthy enough.

Before I started to crochet octopuses I needed to find answers to several questions.

My first question was which yarn to choose. Each country has its own requirements and there are even lists of recommended yarns (for example, HERE is the list of yarns approved in the Netherlands). Common rule is that yarn should be 100% cotton, preferably not mercerized, and with no fluff. I studied the list and chose Cotton 8 yarn* by Scheepjes for my octopuses.

Depending on yarn weight you might need a different hook size. Some patterns are written for Fingering yarn and others for Worsted. Some countries might have strict requirements on yarn, hooks and stuffing, so make sure to check them before you start making octopuses for your local hospital. Because I chose Cotton 8, I thought I would go with the smallest hook good for this yarn – 2.25mm in my case.

My next question was where to find an “official” pattern. The recommended size of the octopus is around 7-9 cm in length of the head and around 15-17 cm in head circumference. However the head’s size is not as important as the length of tentacles. Due to safety reasons they should not exceed 20cm when stretched at a maximum. So in my opinion it’s better to make them shorter.

The general rule is that octopuses should be crocheted very tight. Stuffing must not come through the crocheted fabric when the toy is a little bit stretched. Also tight fabric makes octopuses more durable. In hospitals they are washed often and at very high temperatures (up to 90C degrees).

Many patterns for Octo projects I have seen use a separate bottom part which is then sewn to the head with tentacles. In my opinion this adds more ends to weave in and I was trying to avoid this. So I made my octopus in-one-go without adding a bottom piece. In the same way as octopuses by Anastasia Popova (HERE is the pattern for worsted yarn). I also didn’t add eyes (neither crocheted, plastic safety eyes or embroidered). After many hard washes there is a risk ends can loosen and go out.

When I look at tiny hands holding my octopus, my heart is filled with happiness. And I encourage you to become a part of this wonderful project.

IMPORTANT !!! DISCLOSURE !!! If you want to join an Octo project and donate an octopus to hospital in your country, please, check THIS list of participating countries and Facebook groups, as well as exact standards for an octopus in your country.

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River Washed: new Shawl design is on its way…

March 2, 2018, 3:55 am

≫ Next: River’s Walk Shawl – FREE crochet pattern

≪ Previous: Octopuses for Preemies: my contribution to the world Octo Project

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It was WIP Wednesday last week, and today is a “finished object Friday”. And I finally have the pictures of my new shawl design to show you. Since sneak peeks were published last week (HERE) I have been receiving lots of compliments, comments and requests to reveal it as soon as possible. Linen stitch is really a magical thing, as I only showed you the back side of the shawl… Today you’ll see the front. And I hope it will not disappoint.

My new shawl design has no name yet, so I will call it just “the shawl”. If you get any ideas about the names, please leave the comments below.

As you can see front side differs from the back a lot. I bet this is not something you’ve imagined looking at the sneak peeks. I thought it might be nice to combine linen crochet stitch with a tiny touch of mosaic (or overlay?) crochet. And this idea worked well I think. There is a bright geometric pattern on the front while back side stays very clear with just linen stitch. And the shawl is reversible!

I made two samples for myself and chose gorgeous River Washed* yarn by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). Pink and blue version required one more additional shade, and I used Stone Washed* yarn in Amazonite color. Just in the same quality, feel and composition as River Washed. Amour Clover crochet hook 4.5mm* worked great for this project.

Both yarns are not easy to capture with the camera. Me and my friend Xenie did our best. But believe me that in real life those colors look even better. Very vibrant and mute at the same time. I lack words to describe them. Each color represents two shades. And altogether they play wonderfully.

No need to say the shawls are super warm. But because both yarns are cotton blend (no wool) they can be absolutely worn in spring, and even in cold summer evenings. The size is large enough. I had some leftovers of yarn left, so if you want you can enlarge the shawl a little bit. And the rest leftovers can be used for tassels!

Oh, tassels! I’ve never made them so had to search for a video tutorial on YouTube! :) They are probably not perfect, but I got the hang of making them. More tassels will come in the future, for sure.

FREE crochet pattern for this shawl will be hopefully released next week. My kid is sick at the moment and is staying home with me. Not much time is left for work. But I will do my best to write instructions down, make a photo-tutorial… and maybe even a short video. We’ll see how it goes.

Ah, yes. I would rate the difficulty of this pattern as Advanced Beginner. Not tricky at all ;-)

If you would like to make the shawl for yourself in the same yarns and colors as shown in the pictures, here is the list of the colors I used:

Blue&Pink shawl: 

River Washedn in shades 945 Ganges (x1 skein)
950 Wheaton (x2 skeins)
941 Colorado (x2 skeins)
943 Mekong (x2 skeins)
942 Steenbras (x2 skeins)
and Stone Washed in shade 813 Amazonite (x 2 skeins) = 11 skeins in total

Green&Orange shawl:

River Washed in shades 947 Seine (x1 skein)
951 Amazon (x2 skeins)
952 Rhine (x2 skeins)
949 Yarra (x2 skeins)
944 Nile (x2 skeins)
948 Danube (x2 skeins) = 11 skeins in total

River Washed and Stone Washed yarns are available in your local Scheepjes shops, Caro's Atelier* (NL) and via large international retailers: Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Knotty House* (Canada).

DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

Looking forward to the pattern? See you next week! And please, don’t forget to comment with your suggestions of names for this shawl. Your ideas will be very much appreciated, as my brain is very slow and lack creativity at the moment…

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River’s Walk Shawl – FREE crochet pattern

March 9, 2018, 3:40 am

≫ Next: Let’s Get Squared! (With Jenny King)

≪ Previous: River Washed: new Shawl design is on its way…

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Ta-dah!! I am so happy I managed to finish pattern writing for my newest shawl design. And here it is! Thank you so very much for name suggestions. I saved a few for future designs. :) And this shawl was named River’s Walk (with thanks to Robin Heller Barton!). If you missed the shawl’s reveal – check more pictures HERE.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

 

You will need:

  
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

~ Amour Clover crochet hook 4.5mm* or the size which will give you correct gauge
~ Tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails
~ Sport/DK yarn in six colors. I used River Washed and Stone Washed yarns by Scheepjes in the following shades (colors for green&orange sample are given in brackets):

• Yarn A – River Washed 950 Wheaton (or 951 Amazon) x2 skeins
• Yarn B – River Washed 945 Ganges (or 947 Seine) x1 skein
• Yarn C – Stone Washed 813 Amazonite (or River Washed 952 Rhine) x2 skeins
• Yarn D – River Washed 941 Colorado (or 949 Yarra) x2 skeins
• Yarn E – River Washed 943 Mekong (or 944 Nile) x2 skeins
• Yarn F – River Washed 942 Steenbras (or 948 Danube) x2 skeins

River Washed and Stone Washed yarns are available in your local Scheepjes shops, Caro's Atelier* (NL) and via large international retailers: Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Knotty House* (Canada).

Measurements: your shawl’s size will depend on yarn and hook you choose. My shawl is approx. 162cm/63.8in wide and 80cm/31.5in high when blocked.

Gauge: after 17 rows triangle is approx. 10cm/4in high

Pattern Notes:

• River’s Walk Shawl consists of the body and several Geometric Panels.
• Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So first sc of each row is made in last stitch of previous row.
• Cut yarn in the end of the rows only if there are bigger floats of yarn appear on the edge. Otherwise carry yarn from one row to next without cutting (within one geometric panel, for example).
• When changing yarn in the end of the row, make the last stitch with new color (insert hook from back to front). That will make small floats on the WS but RS will look neater. Yarn is changed after every 2 rows - for Geometric Panels 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

 

Here is video-tutorial to help you with the pattern:

 

 

Shawl’s body

Row 1 RS. With Yarn A. Make magic ring. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), (2sc, ch2, 2sc) into ring, turn.

Row 2 WS. Ch1, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 2sc in last st, turn.

Row 3 Ch1, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 2sc in last st, turn.

Row 4 Ch1, 2sc in first st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] till corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in ch2-sp in the corner, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] till 2 sts left, ch1, skip 1 st, 2sc in last st, turn.

Rows 5-36 As Row 4. Change colors as following:

• Rows 5-17 with Yarn A (17 rows in total from the beginning)
•  Rows 18-19 with Yarn B (2 rows)

 

• Rows 20-23 with Yarn A (4 rows)
• Rows 24-31 with Yarn B (8 rows)
• Rows 32-36 with Yarn A (5 rows)

Geometric Panel 1

Rows 37-40 With Yarn C. As Row 4, change to Yarn D in final st of Row 40.

Row 41Note: all dc here and throughout are made in “free” (skipped) sts from 3 rows directly below - in front of work. Always skip the sts/sps behind dc’s just made.

RS. With Yarn D. Ch1, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp,

[ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, 1dc in “free” st from 3 rows directly below (here and throughout), skip 1 st behind dc just made (here and throughout), 1sc in next sp] till last sc before the corner, ch1,
(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in ch2-sp in the corner,
[ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, 1dc, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp] till last 3 sc+sp left, ch1, skip 1 st, 1sc in next sp, ch1, skip 1 st, 2sc in last st, turn. (14 dc, 32 sc and 16 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 42 WS. Continue with Yarn D.
Ch1, 2sc in first st,
[ch1, skip 1 st/sp, 1sc in next st] till 1 st before the corner,
ch1, skip 1 st,
(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in ch2-sp in the corner,
[ch1, skip 1 st/sp, 1sc in next st] till 2 sts left, ch1, skip 1 st, 2sc in last st, change to Yarn C, turn. (33 sc and 31 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 43 RS. With Yarn C. As Row 41.

Row 44 WS. Continue with Yarn C. As Row 42. Change to Yarn D in final st.
Row 45-46. With Yarn D. As Row 4. Change to Yarn C in final st.
Rows 47-48. With Yarn C. As Row 4. Change to Yarn B in final st.
Rows 49-50. With Yarn B. As Row 4.

Your shawl should measure approx. 32cm/12.5in in height.

Shawl’s body

Rows 51-66. As Row 4. Change colors as following:

• Rows 51-54 with Yarn B (4 rows)
• Rows 55-62 with Yarn A (8 rows)
• Rows 63-64 with Yarn B (2 rows)
• Rows 65-66 with Yarn A (2 rows)

The rest of the pattern consists of repeats of geometric panels (rows 37-50 unless otherwise stated in the pattern). Make 4 panels in total in following color ways:

Geometric Panel 2

Rows 37-40 with Yarn D
Rows 41-42 with Yarn E
Rows 43-44 with Yarn D
Rows 45-46 with Yarn E
Rows 47-48 with Yarn D
Rows 49-50 with Yarn C

Geometric Panel 3

Rows 37-40 with Yarn F
Rows 41-42 with Yarn A
Rows 43-44 with Yarn F
Rows 45-46 with Yarn A
Rows 47-48 with Yarn F (E)
Rows 49-50 with Yarn C (don’t make these two rows for green&orange version)

Geometric Panel 4

Rows 37-40 with Yarn E (C)
Rows 41-42 with Yarn D
Rows 43-44 with Yarn E (C)
Rows 45-46 with Yarn D
Rows 47-48 with Yarn A
Rows 49-50 – don’t make these two rows for both versions

Geometric Panel 5

Rows 37-40 with Yarn C (E)
Rows 41-42 with Yarn F
Rows 43-44 with Yarn C (E)
Rows 45-46 with Yarn F
Rows 47-48 with Yarn E (D)
Rows 49-50 with Yarn D (C)

If you have leftovers, please, feel free to make your shawl larger by repeating Row 4, if you wish. You can also use leftovers for tassels.

Congratulations!! Your River’s Walk Shawl is now finished!


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Let’s Get Squared! (With Jenny King)

March 16, 2018, 7:15 am

≫ Next: Cahlista: a new project on my list

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Garment making is my new crochet passion. I like simple and easy shapes (but not boring) and a slightly oversized fit and look. I’ve made (and even designed myself) quite a few garments recently. And I am looking forward to learn more about shaping and sizing.

Today I would like to show you my hot off the hook sweater. I made it following the video course Get Squared by Jenny King– a crochet designer from Australia. Jenny kindly gifted me this course to try it out and maybe to write a review. And now when my sweater is completed I would like to share my thoughts and experience with you.

What is Jenny’s course Get Squared about?

Get squared course is about creating garments with basic crochet granny stitch. You don’t need to be an experienced crocheter to make a unique sweater or cardigan for yourself. Jenny’s course is all about magic and it’s aimed to absolute beginners in crochet (as well as advanced makers who would like to learn a new method of creating garments).

You will need (any) yarn, 6mm crochet hook, several measurements of your body... and 10 minutes to watch the video. That’s it. Jenny has created a universal (and pretty much innovative) system of creating garments – without complicated measuring, shaping or sewing. Get Squared is a very clear, complexed and complete method explaining everything from beginning to end.

 

What you'll get with Get Squared

Get Squared course consists of several short videos: introduction and explanation on how to create five different garment styles – basic sweater/jumper, basic cardigan, cardigan with extended fronts, cardigan with V-neck shaping and a shrug.

Instructional videos give a very clear idea about basic shaping and with your own accents (like collar, hem, buttons, different length of sleeves) you can create endless variations of garments. You can create literally everything. And no need to mention that with 6mm hook and a “speedy” granny stitch your new garment will be made in almost no time. With some frogging and remaking it took me, guess, 9 hours in total to make my sweater.

The course will also provide you with a chart and table with measurements where you will add your own “magic numbers” – several simple measurements of your body.

My own experience with Get Squared

I first heard about Get Squared system at last Bloggers Days when creative director of Scheepjes– Simy Somer – was showing her nearly finished crochet shrug. To be honest I am not very fond of granny stitch. I am not even sure why… Maybe because I haven’t seen many crochet designs with this stitch which look modern. But Simy’s shrug inspired me to give this system a try.

In the very beginning I made two mistakes. I don’t normally use large hooks, and I thought that for 6mm hook I should take some bulky yarn. Which is not true at all! In her video Jenny is showing cardigan made with very fine yarn. And with large hook granny stitch is getting a very nice drape. So after a little bit of swatching I put away 20 skeins of bulky wool yarn and chose Merino Soft yarn* by Scheepjes instead. The label recommends 4.5mm hook, but with 6mm hook granny shells became nicely draping.

My second mistake was wrong sizing. With Jenny’s recommendations I made necessary measurements (for a perfect fit). But after I started to crochet I felt like adding much more ease to my sweater. To make it slightly oversized. And to get an oversized effect with granny stitch you should really add enough of space.

After both mistakes were corrected everything went very fast and smooth. I loved Jenny’s videos and the way she talks to you. Her voice is very soothing, she is taking time to explain every single detail. She is using both UK and US terms in her talking, so no chance to be lost. Jenny also mentions some tips and tricks I’ve never heard of before, and her decreases for sleeves are genius! With nice background music I had a feeling as if I was talking to an old friend in my living room.

And what I really loved about Get Squared course is that video's are not long at all. It takes up to 10-12 minutes to get a complete insight into every garment style! No endless hours of watching and trying to filter important information.

After approx. 9 hours of crochet my sweater was done. First I made it much longer. But then frogged almost half of it, added knit-look hem to the bottom and sleeves, and a long tunelneck collar. I turned my sweater inside out to make back side as a front. For some reason I like it much better like this. And ta-dah! The sweater is ready!

If you got interested in Jenny’s system of creating garments you might also want to have a look at your new Kids Squared course for children's garments. The course includes video tutition as well as 21 pattern shortcuts which can be made to fit children, from babies through to pre-teens. And I am sure it will not disappoint.

My fellow blogger friends also got hooked with Jenny King designs. Nerissa of Miss Neriss has created a classy cardigan (and also published an interview with Jenny on her blog HERE). And Susan of Felted Button went very creative with shaping. Check her colorful sweater HERE.

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Cahlista: a new project on my list

March 23, 2018, 6:31 am

≫ Next: DOVE square: Let’s Celebrate Peace

≪ Previous: Let’s Get Squared! (With Jenny King)

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How many wips and project ideas do you have? My list is growing every day and I start to feel hopeless. I wish I knew the place where I could buy extra time and preferably extra hands. But anyway! At the moment I am working on at least three projects. One of them is super (super!!) secret (and I am afraid I can explode of excitement before I am free to show you…). Another project is currently in test and should be released soon. And I have already started to plan a new crochet project. And today I would like to show you the yarn I chose.

Well, to be honest that will be not a totally new design but a remake of something “old”. Or better to say an old project with a new shape. I was receiving lots of queries about it, and probably the right time has come!

And I have chosen Cahlista yarn by Scheepjes. It’s a recent addition to Scheepjes line of cotton yarns, this time in aran weight. Cahlista comes in nice 50g (1.76 ounces) skeins and (jaw dropping) 109 (!) colors!! With lots of shades and sub-shades of all rainbow colors. Bright, neon, pale, dusty – any variations you could wish! The yardage is usual for aran yarns – each skein has approx. 85 meters (93 yards).

And what I find very exciting about Cahlista is that ALL 109 shades are also available in 15g skeins as a Colour Pack*.

You can have a look at all colors in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).

As mentioned already Cahlista is an aran weight yarn. It's pretty stiff and I am not sure if you can use it for garments and clothes accessories. But it’s definitely ideal for different kinds of home décor, like pillows, bags, maybe bathmats, potholders, trivets and blankets, of course!

So far I have only used Cahlista once for my Geometric Mandala hotpads. And since then I have been planning a new design for this yarn.

It’s 100% cotton, but not mercerized. Very natural in feel and look and with no gloss. The twist is not very strong, and sometimes the yarn can split. But with right type of the hook this effect is minimized. I have noticed that with Clover Amour crochet hook* Cahlista is worked up really well. The label recommends 4.5mm-5mm hook and this just the same size I felt comfortable with Cahlista.

Except of Geometric Mandala I don’t have anything to show you at the moment. Yet. But be sure to check fantastic and FREE patterns designed by my fellow blogger friends. One of them is One Step Beyond blanket by Martin Up North in mosaic crochet (he has also created an incredible Move On Up Wrap with 99 mini skeins from Cahlista Colour Pack!).

Photo credit: Martin Up North

 And Every Bit A Blanket by Susan of Felted Button (free pattern is available HERE).

Photo credit: Felted Button

I am very curious how my own idea will work and if I chose the right colors. Time will show!


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DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
 

DOVE square: Let’s Celebrate Peace

March 30, 2018, 3:59 am

≫ Next: Peacock Tail Mandala: new shape for an old pattern

≪ Previous: Cahlista: a new project on my list

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If you know me well, you probably know I love challenges. I take literally every opportunity to learn something new and practice in what I am good already. Several months ago I was approached by lady Talia who asked me to design an afghan crochet square exclusively for a workshop. And now I can share my new design with you!

Dove with an olive branch is known as a symbol for peace. And for me this also means peace of mind and peace of soul. How often we find ourselves in situations when we can’t do much. And then internal peace and hope help us to be strong. To cope… and even survive.

DOVE square pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, April 2nd, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Far not every crochet task sounds doable from the very beginning, but I truly believe that every creative idea can be finally brought to life. Sooner or later. In this or that way. I can’t really tell you how many hours it took me to figure out the whole concept for a dove square. My brain was working not stop for weeks trying to put the pieces of puzzle together. I was thinking about filet crochet, about colorful and solid squares. I even wanted to “draw” the dove with cables, when suddenly it clicked in my mind that I can actually combine several crochet techniques in one design. And woo-hoo here it is!

From the very beginning I wanted to design an afghan square. I had no idea how large it will be in the end. And I also wanted to present both symbols (dove and olive branch) together. And it became possible by using structured stitches for the square’s center, and then tapestry panel on the outer edge. To make square look balanced I again added a textured “olive branch border” around it. And I’m pretty happy with how all components look together.

As already mentioned, the pattern uses both tapestry and overlay crochet technique. The stitches are not tricky, but you haven’t tried these techniques before you might need to practice a bit, before you get control over your tension. But once you feel comfortable, everything will go smooth. And I also think that DOVE square pattern gives a nice opportunity to learn something new.

DOVE square can be made with just 2 colors, or more shades (4 for example). I used Stone Washed yarn by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE) for both versions shown in this blog post, together with 4mm Amour Clover hook*. Stone Washed yarn is available in your local Scheepjes stores as well as via larger online retailers, such as Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK but with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe), Knotty House* (Canada) and Loveknitting* (US).

You can use Dove square as a separate decoration for a pillow, or as an afghan square (you can combine squares with and without dove panel for a balanced look). Also central “olive branc squares" can be used as a separate pattern, too.

I am often asked how it is possible to turn crochet square into a pillow. Well, there are several options and one of them it to crochet another square in the same size and then join both pieces together. But I personally prefer another option: I always sew crocheted decoration onto ready fabric pillowcases by hand. I’ve created a short video HERE for you to see how to do it neatly.

If you have other ideas about how to use larger crochet squares, please leave a comment below this post. I would love to hear your ideas.

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Brief facts about DOVE square:

• Level: Intermediate: tapestry crochet, clusters and front post stitches
• Language: English (US terms)
• Pattern contains complete written instructions and heavy photo-tutorial illustrating every round (except of tapestry panel which should be followed with chart and written text). The resolution of pictures is good enough to be zoomed in.
• DOVE square pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, April 2nd, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed.

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DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

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Peacock Tail Mandala: new shape for an old pattern

April 6, 2018, 6:08 am

≫ Next: Peacock Tail Mandala pillow: FREE crochet pattern

≪ Previous: DOVE square: Let’s Celebrate Peace

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Two weeks ago I showed you the colors of Cahlista yarn* I chose for a new project. It took more time than I expected, but I have been playing with peacock shades almost every (night) day, and new pattern is almost here. Basically it’s not a brand new pattern but a shape transformation of Peacock Tail bag. If you joined me for the CAL back in 2016 you might have recognized at once the pattern and the colors, too. And if you didn’t make the bag, then you might like the mandala shape.

I naively believed it would be very easy to adapt the pattern to the full circle. But I was wrong. I told several times already that Peacock Tail Bag pattern is one of the most advanced I have ever designed. Not because it’s tricky to follow, but because it was not so straightforward for designing. The stitches of a background didn’t want to cooperate and tended to tilt all the time. And instead of a small adaptation I needed to rewrite the pattern from a scratch. And to change placement of most of the stitches.

My mandala turned to be quite big. It’s approx. 62cm/24.5” across and I think it will make a wonderful floor pillow. I still need to crochet the back and write down the instructions, but front mandala pattern is already in test with wonderful Hilde of Road Rash, my angel who is always ready to help. She has chosen some fresh and spring-ish colors, and I can’t wait to see how her finished mandala will look (no doubt it will be very neat and gorgeous).

I am not sure I can find a ready pillow foam in the same matching size, so I will probably have to sew one myself. Luckily I have almost half a kilo of stuffing… Maybe not enough to make the pillow firm, but still enough to show you the finished pillow next week.

I should also give you a small update on Cahlista yarn. I wrote a short review about it HERE. The yarn seemed quite stiff in skeins, but because it has almost no twist, the finished fabric turned out very soft and draping. And I am sure it will become even softer after the wash. So I should reconsider my skeptical idea about using Cahlista for garments. It will probably work well for a sturdy and heavy coat, or jacket.

Cahlista yarn is vaialbel in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).

I am back to swatching and pattern writing. And hope to bring you Peacock Tail Mandala pattern next week.

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DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

Peacock Tail Mandala pillow: FREE crochet pattern

April 13, 2018, 6:27 am

≫ Next: Roman Labyrinth: a rug and a pillow in one pattern

≪ Previous: Peacock Tail Mandala: new shape for an old pattern

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Peacock Tail Mandala pattern is an adaptation of Peacock Tail Bag into full circle. You can use this mandala as wall hanging, pillow (shown in the pattern), table decoration and even area rug (if made with worsted/bulky yarn and larger hook).

 Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

 

*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry.

 

You will need:

  
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

~ Amour Clover crochet hook 4.5mm* or the size which will give you correct gauge
~ Tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails
~ Aran yarn in five colors. I used Cahlista yarn by Scheepjes in the following shades (amounts are given for entire pillow): 401 (3 skeins), 395 (3 skeins), 282 (3 skeins), (3 skeins), 249 (1 skein)

Cahlista yarn is available in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).


Measurements: The size of the finished mandala depends on the yarn and hook you use. My pillow is approx. 62cm (24 ½”) large across.

Gauge: after 4 rounds circle with dc measures 10cm (4”) across.

Check Important Notes for this pattern HERE.

Abbreviations (US terms)

rnd round
st(s) stitch(es) 

ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated

ss (slip stitch)– insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook.
sc (single crochet)– insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet)– yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 3 lps.
dc (double crochet)– yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, *pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble)– yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPtr5tog (front posttreble 5 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*5 times, yo, pull through all 6 lps on hook.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble)– yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.

“modified” tr4tog - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice, *yo twice, insert the hook to the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*3 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook. Check tutorial HERE.

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
 
Color Key: C1 – emerald (401), C2 – green (395), C3 – purple (282), C4 – dark blue (527), C5 – yellow (249)

Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!

Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as first dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)

Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.

*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)

Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first st of any dc increase of rnd 2.

*dc in next (first dc of the rnd will be ch2 – here and throughout), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)

Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.

*2dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)

Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.

*3dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)

Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much.

*hdc in next 5 sts (first hdc will be ch2 – here and throughout), FPtr around second dc of inc of rnd 4 below, skip no sts on rnd 5* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (72)

Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second hdc before any FPtr of rnd 6.

*5hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first hdc of the rnd after ch2. (84)

Row 8. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st after any increase of Rnd 7.
On this and all next rounds tr4tog's are made in a "modified" way (See Abbreviations and Stitch Guide).

*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around central st of Rnd 6 between two FPtr below, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (96)

Rnd 9. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in any FPtr. Don’t work tight.

96hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (96 sts)

Rnd 10. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after marked st.

*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (108)

Rnd 11. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any tr4tog. Don’t work tight.

108 hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (108)

Rnd 12. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st after marked one.
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10. First increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.

*2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase below, skip 1 st, 3hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (120 sts)

Rnd 13. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of Rnd 12 before any FPtr.
Note: you will get 12 “U” on this row.

*5hdc, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into this tr4tog, then make 1FPsc around each of next 2 next sts of rnd 11), ch4, skip 5 sts on Rnd 12* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2.

Rnd 14. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first hdc of any group of 5hdc of Rnd 13.

*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr of Rnd 12 below, skip no sts, 2hdc, 1FPtr around same st of Rnd 11 where first FPsc was made, 3FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, 1FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, skip ch4-sp* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (132)

Rnd 15. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 14 before any tr4tog.

*5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip no sts, 5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip 1 st,* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (144 sts)

Rnd 16. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in FPtr of Rnd 15 before any tr4tog of same color below.

*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, skip 5 sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (156)

Rnd 17. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st after any group of 5 FPtr of Rnd 16.

*8hdc, 1FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, skip 1 st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around next FPtr of Rnd 15 below, skip no sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (168)

Row 18. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in third hdc of Rnd 17 of any group of 4 hdc.

*14hdc, FPtr5tog (make each leg around each of 5 FPtr of same color below), skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (180)

Rnd 19. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after any FPtr5tog of Rnd 18.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of Rnd 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr5tog of previous rnd. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.

*15hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (192)

Rnd 20. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 19 before any FPtr2tog.

*5hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 18 which was made after FPtr of row 17 below, skip no sts, 10hdc, 1FPtr (as previous), sk 1 sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (204)

Rnd 21. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 20 of any group of 5 hdc.

*16hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (216)

Rnd 22. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in first hdc of Rnd 21 before any increase.

*6hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 5hdc, 2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)

Rnd 23. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second hdc of any increase of Rnd 22.

*9hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase of Rnd 21 below, skip 1 st, 9hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)

Rnd 24. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 23 before any FPtr.

*4hdc, FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st, 6hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc, 1FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (240)

Rnd 25. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 24 of any group of 4 hdc.
Note: Feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if needed.

*10hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 23 made in first st of increase of Rnd 22, skip no sts, 9hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)

Rnd 26. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of rnd 27 after any tr4tog. Make legs of FPtr2tog around FPtr of same color below lying to the right and to the left of current stitch.

*20hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)

Rnd 27. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in fifth st of Rnd 26 before any FPtr2tog.

*5hdc, 2hdc in next FPtr2tog, 6hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 before next FPtr, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 after FPtr, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (264)

Rnd 28. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in fourth st of Rnd 27 before any increase.
Note: legs of FPtr2togs are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below.

*13sc (first sc will be ch1 – here and to the end), [1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc] twice, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (264)

Rnd 29. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first sc of Rnd 28 after first FPtr2tog of any group of 3 FPtr2tog’s.

Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), *1tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, skip 1 st, 2hdc, 1tr4tog (as previous), skip 1 st, 11hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc* 12 times – make last hdc in same st where yarn was attached; NJ in first tr4tog. (276)

Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 29 of any group of 19 hdc.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.

*18sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (276)

Rnd 31. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in FPtr2tog of Rnd 30 after any group of 3 sc.

*9hdc, 2hdc in next st, 12hdc, 1tr4tog in st of Rnd 29 at the bottom of “V” below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (288)

Row 32. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 31 after any tr4tog.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.

*23sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (288 sts)

Row 33. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in any st of Rnd 32.
Dc in every st around, NJ in first dc after ch2.

Back part

• Back part of Peacock pillow is worked in rounds on RS through both loops.
• Change colors on every round as per pattern (or in whatever order). Attach yarn in any sts between increases of previous round (or two round below if previous round doesn’t contain increases).
• First hdc/dc of each rnd will be ch2.
• Finish rounds with Needle Join (same as for front mandala)

Rnds 1-5. As for front mandala.
Rnd 6. With C3. *4hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (72)
Rnd 7. With C1. *5hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (84)
Rnd 8. With C2. *6hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 9. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 10. With C1. *7hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 11. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 12. With C4. *8hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 13.With C1. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 14. With C3. *9hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (132)
Rnd 15. With C2. *10hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (144)
Rnd 16. With C4. *11hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (156)
Rnd 17. With C1. *12hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (168)
Rnd 18. With C3. *13hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (180)
Rnd 19. With C2. *14hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (192)
Rnd 20. With C4. *15hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (204)
Rnd 21. With C1. *16hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (216)
Rnd 22. With C3. *17hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 23. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 24. With C4. *18hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (240)
Rnd 25. With C1. *19hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 26. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 27. With C2. *20dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (264)
Rnd 28. With C4. *21dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (276)
Rnd 29. With C1. *22hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, join with ss in first hdc, don’t fasten off. (288)

Finishing

Place front and back parts with WS facing each other. Sc around inserting the hook through both layers. Stuff the pillow (insert pillow foam) before you finish joining. Then continue sc till beginning of the rnd, join with ss in first sc, fasten off. Weave in tail.

Congratulations!! Your Peacock Tail Mandala pillow is now finished!

*You  can purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry.

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Roman Labyrinth: a rug and a pillow in one pattern

April 27, 2018, 5:17 am

≫ Next: Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine: WOMAN

≪ Previous: Peacock Tail Mandala pillow: FREE crochet pattern

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Graphic design and architecture are always wonderful sources of inspiration for crochet pieces. Last summer while browsing Pinterest (my favourite place to search for inspiration) I came across Roman Labyrinth image. It was a picture of ancient floor title somewhere in Italy. And I thought it would be great to recreate the same image in crochet. For an area rug. I adapted labyrinth graphics for the needs of overlay crochet. And here it is! My new overlay crochet pattern!

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Roman labyrinth was well known and widespread throughout the Roman Empire, and many examples have survived from this period, especially in the form of floor mosaics. Nowadays Roman Labyrinth is used in contemporary interior design. I like these clear geometric lines, and I think it can suit well modern interiors: both as rug and as a pillow.

Roman Labyrinth pattern is on SALE right now through Monday, April 30th, 2018 both on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. It is offered with 25% discount which is already applied in price and no coupon codes needed. 

Using Roman Labyrinth pattern you can make either a pillow or an area rug. The pattern can be recreated with just two shades of yarn. Or, if you like the colors, you can choose a new shade for every of five sections and combine them with main color. The colorful version will become a great accessory for your kid’s room. My sun can’t stop playing with his new pillow. And he claimed it as his own from the very first moment when I only created the chart.

Roman Labyrinth pattern contains row-by-row written instructions, the chart (with explanation of how to read it) and step-by-step pictures to guide you through every step and row. A print friendly version of the pattern with no pictures is also available for download. There is also a tutorial about how to use multiple colors to create the same pillow as mine.

The pattern uses overlay crochet with front post stitches on the right side. You will only use one color for each two rows, and the yarn is not broken but is carried along the edge up to the next rows. Easy and almost no ends to weave in.

For this project you can use absolutely any yarn in solid colors. I would recommend something heavy and bulky for the rug. I have wanted to try Lopi yarn since long ago, and rug seemed like the perfect project for that. I chose Alafosslopi yarn which is bulky weight, and used two shades for central labyrinth panel, and then added four different colors for the border. My rug turned out thick and warm. Just a perfect feel for my feet.

Lopi yarn is available via Wool Warehouse HERE* (UK with international shipping) if you prefer to shop online.

And for my pillow I used leftovers of Colour Crafter yarn by Scheepjes in bright and happy colors together with 4.5mm crochet hook*. I felt lazy to crochet back side for my pillow, so I sewed crocheted square onto ready fabric pillowcase bought in IKEA. Here is a video tutorial on how I usually do this.

You can purchase Colour Crafter yarn in your local Scheepjes shops, or via online retailers*:

Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping)
Black Sheep Wools* (UK, international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)

In my opinion Roman Labyrinth pattern is quite a relaxing project, and with large hook your new rug will be born in no time. You can skip written instructions and follow the chart if you are comfortable with just visual support. I will be very happy to see your finished creations! Please, share them with me in my Ravelry group HERE or Facebook group HERE. And please use the tag #romanlabyrinthrug on social media.

Brief Facts about Roman Labyrinth pattern:

 

• Level: Intermediate: tapestry crochet, clusters and front post stitches
• Language: English (US terms)
• Pattern contains complete written instructions, a chart and heavy photo-tutorial. Print friendly version of the pattern without pictures is also available for download.
• Roman Labyrinth pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, April 30th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed.

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Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine: WOMAN

May 4, 2018, 6:26 am

≫ Next: How to Join Crochet Squares in the Corners

≪ Previous: Roman Labyrinth: a rug and a pillow in one pattern

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Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine has freshly come out of print and safely arrived to my place yesterday. It was probably one of the most exciting and impatiently awaited YARN project I have contributed to. Because… Because it’s very personal. Because it tells the story of our Scheepjes bloggers Tribe. And my own story. And besides that lots of wonderful crochet and knitting pattern inside.

Photo credit: Scheepjes

As women, we can wear many different “hats” throughout our lives: daughter, sister, mother, wife, friend. These are roles that unite us, and can sometimes define us. But more importantly, throughout the many roles we play in our lives, we grow and develop. We become stronger, more confident and wiser. 

In this 5th issue of YARN book-a-zine, we explore and celebrate the similarities and differences that unite us together as women. We join hand in hand with women of different ages, cultures, shapes and sizes, to bring you design that tells our stories.

Intro from YARN 5

If this is the first time you come across YARN, it’s a biannual book-a-zine published by Scheepjes yarn company. It combines the features of both a magazine and a book. And each issue is themed, so you can create your own collection. This is the fifth book-a-zine called WOMAN, and you can check previous issues HERE.

No need to say I love each and everyone, and not because I am one of the contributing designers. I like the whole concept of this edition, I like the styling and thick quality paper. And I know that YARN is a true labor of love. It’s created by creative and friendly people who are passionate about yarn and crafts.

I am not sure I can describe with words what YARN 5 is about. So probably the pictures can speak better. This issue includes 14 crochet and knitting patterns (garments, shawls, wraps, blankets, tablecloth, pillows and accessories). In this issue you will also find a “Must-Haves” guide about stylish and handy crafty tools and accessories, and get acquainted with Anne Ten Donkelaar, a designer and artist.

And the central chapter is devoted to Scheepjes Bloggers group (or, Tribe, as we call it). You’ll meet all bloggers – super creative, lovely and friendly ladies and one man, and you’ll learn more about individuals colorways of brand new yarn Our Tribe by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). And because we are talking about Our Tribe yarn now, be sure to check an article by Tammy of Canadutch who swatched each and every colorway for you to see the colorchanges.

Photo credit: Canadutch

I will not show you all designs included in YARN 5 (you can see previews on Ravelry HERE), but I just have to tell you about my own designs. Which I am very proud of.

One of them is Amethyst Dress – my latest challenge in garment design and sizing. The dress uses Whirl* and Whirlette* yarns in matching and gorgeous lavender shades. The construction is very simple: square yoke is growing down to an A-shaped skirt. And the dress comes in 5 sizes (S-XXL).

Photo credit: Scheepjes

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And another design I contributed to YARN 5 is Techno Clutch made in tapestry crochet with 10g mini skeins of Catona* yarn (or ‘cuties pies’).

Photo credit: Scheepjes

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I was a bit in a hurry wanting to show you newest issue of YARN book-a-zine, and I didn’t really have time to sit down and carefully read it through. So please, excuse me, I am off to read.

And you can grab your own copy (in English or in Dutch) in your local Scheepjes shops or via online retailers : Caro’s Atelier* (IN STOCK!!! - NL and Europe), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* - will be in stock any day now (UK with international shipping), and Knotty House* (Canada). Enjoy!

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How to Join Crochet Squares in the Corners

May 15, 2018, 6:55 am

≫ Next: Sunny Border: a new pattern to square mandala’s up

≪ Previous: Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine: WOMAN

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A square is the shape most widely used in crochet. Blankets, pillows, bags… and even garments can be made with squares. Some of them are worked seamlessly in continuous spiral. But most squares are crocheted in rounds – with join. And to get rid of visible seams it is better to join rounds in the corners.

In some simple designs with plain stitches the join in the middle of the round can also be more or less visible. But it’s getting a bit tricky to hide the seam when we are making lace or textured fabric. And join in the corners can help a lot! Also joining in the corner makes stitch count very easy, as we are making the same repeat on each square’s side.

Here are two examples of how the squares with single crochet and double crochet stitches (US terms) look when joined on the side and in the corner.

When we work with double crochet stitches, we should make extra chains in the beginning of each round.

And square with single crochet stitches has a visible ridge in the place where rounds are joined.

To minimize both effects it’s better to join rounds in the corners. There are probably many different ways to do that. But here is how I am doing it. Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes was used for the needs of this photo-tutorial.

Abbreviations (US terms)

chchain
sp space
yo yarn over
ss (slip stitch)– insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second loop through the first loop on hook.
sc (single crochet stitch)– insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
dc (double crochet stitch)– yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.

1. Square with single crochet stitches

Make ch2 and 1sc in the same space in the corner, *continue with sc in every stitch along the square's side till you come to the next corner, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in next space in the corner; repeat from * for next 2 sides. Make 1sc in each stitch on the last (fourth) side till you come to joining ss (slip stitch) of the previous round. Make 1sc in this ss and join the round with ss in ch2-sp in the beginning of the round.

2. Square with double crochet stitches

Make ch4 (or ch5 if you tend to crochet very tight) which will count as first dc+ch2. Make 2dc in same space. *Continue with dc in every stitch along the square's side till you come to the next corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next space in the corner; repeat from * for next 2 sides. Make 1dc in each stitch on the last (fourth) side till you come to joining ss of the previous round. Make 1dc in this ss, 1dc in space of previous round in the corner and join the round with ss in ch2-sp in the beginning of the round.

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